So who is Jean May? “She’s my maternal grandmother. She and I were very close. She had more than 15 grandchildren, but I was closest to her. She was a great cook. I was too young to help, but I would always follow her around.
“Among my mum’s siblings, my mum is the best cook, and she is always the one to bring the family together. They cook Shanghainese dishes.”
Why did you get into finance? “My dad is in finance and I wanted to follow in his footsteps. When we were growing up, everyone talked about being a banker, lawyer and doctor, so I never thought of becoming a chef.
“My first degree was in pathology. I am interested in science and biology, but it wasn’t the right career for me. Then I got a master’s in investment management to get into finance in 2005.”
How did that turn out? “I kind of liked investment banking, but after four years I started having serious headaches – I’d never had headaches before. I couldn’t sleep and it affected my life. In 2009, I had an MRI scan that showed I had a blood vessel tumour in my brain. They said I didn’t need surgery, but I had to monitor it.
“I immediately thought that if I died, I wouldn’t have done anything I was passionate about. I needed to do what I wanted to do deep down, so I quit my job right away.”
And went into cooking? “I’ve always been a fan of [London-based French chef] Pierre Koffmann. To me, he is the godfather of French cuisine. I wanted to learn the traditional way, as a stagiaire [unpaid intern], and work with the chef himself.
“I had no culinary experience, just a general interest in eating. Restaurant kitchens are open-minded and accept people of all nationalities, ages and industries. In 2010, I started working with Pierre at The Berkeley.”
With no previous experience, what was it like being a stagiaire? “I realised how much it takes to go from nothing to being so skilled in something. It was stressful but exciting. I learned so much. You push yourself because you want to be a useful member of the team and be accepted for a full-time position.
“I didn’t have any headaches. Physically and mentally it was more challenging than banking, but because I was doing something I loved, it felt right.”
What did you learn from Koffmann? “I learned flavours, how to make good sauces, how to cook meat by touch. We were not allowed to use tongs. If he saw a pair of tongs, he would put them in the bin. If he saw a timer he would put it in the bin. You ask him how long, and he would say, ‘Until it’s cooked.’
“He runs the restaurant from behind the stove, but he is in control of every single person. He notices everything, from the reception to the pot wash, to the bathroom. If anyone makes a mistake during the day and he finds out, then he’s relentless, but it also pushes you to multitask and be observant.”
Where else did you work? “In 2012, chef Pierre sent me to Le Gavroche, where he had been head chef when he first came to England, back in the 1970s. It was started by the Roux brothers [Albert and Michel]. Chef Pierre told me to forget about everything he’d taught me and start like a blank piece of paper because every kitchen has its own way.
“Pierre always said chef Éric Chavot is one of the best chefs in the world. I went to work for him at Brasserie Chavot [now closed] in 2014 for a year. His style of food is a bit more modern. He’s not only a very good chef, he has the biggest heart. He genuinely wants all his students to do well. and will do his best to support them. I also worked for Phil Howard at The Square [also in London].
“But before working with Phil Howard, in 2015, I had a severe skin allergy and I went through a short period of depression. A lot of family stuff happened at that time. I couldn’t sleep because it was so itchy. I saw a lot of doctors, Chinese medicine and alternative medicine.
“I came back to Hong Kong to rest and then went back to London and went back to Koffmann in 2016. He only allowed me to work three days a week so I could rest, but on my days off I went to work at the bakery next door to the hotel. When he found out he was really mad.”
When did you know you wanted to open a restaurant? “I hadn’t decided whether to open here or in London, but I came back because my parents were getting old and I wanted to be with them. I think it’s a typical dream of chefs to open their own restaurant because I have a vision of what kind of space I want to create and what kind of food I want to cook.
“I want to create a place where people can enjoy themselves and feel at home, like I have enjoyed at a lot of places. I like this space – it’s near the market and kind of hidden – although some of my friends were shocked I took this space, asking, ‘Where do I park?’”
Where do you like to eat in Hong Kong? “I like to eat at Neighborhood for the simplicity and casualness, and the food has good flavour. Another place I like is Arcane. I respect chef Shane Osborn a lot. He’s a great chef with so much experience and skill, knowledge and humility. He reminds me of chef Pierre in many ways.“I haven’t eaten out in a few months but my mum is a really good cook. She makes Shanghainese and Cantonese dishes, but she’s famous for her yuen tai – braised pork knuckle with the skin and fat – but because she’s OCD about grease, there’s not one drop of oil. She’s meticulous and puts so much love into it. It’s inspiring.”
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